Saturday, July 2, 2011

Graduate class of 1979-1981 - Thirty years after


Graduate class of 1981, L to R: Li Qingsheng, Shi Kuan, Huang Ke, Liu Hanbing, Ying Laixi, Luo Cheng

Campus tour
 From June 3 to June 5, six of the twelve members of the 1979-1981 Wuhan University English graduate class, the first English graduate class at Wuda in many years, gathered along with some of their former teachers for a thirty year reunion and commemoration. The other six, scattered around the globe, were unable to join us for various reasons. We missed each one of them.

In our old classroom
It was a lively three days of memories and discussion. On our first morning we met at the campus guesthouse where most of the group was staying and walked the campus, visiting former classrooms and the old library building, recalling having to get there early to find a seat among the hundreds of students silently reading.
Another former classroom
June 3, 2011
July 1981


Success? What is it?

Bing returns to the study hall

Huang Ke & Yang Yasha, 1980

Professor Xu Hailan conducts MA thesis defense 1981

Graduating English students 2011
 We caught up on each other’s stories and talked about absent members. There were revelations about the past, such as that Zhou Xin Ping (“Pete”), now director of the new C.V. Starr East Asian Library at Berkeley, had memorized an entire English dictionary while a student, or that Huang Ke, now an executive at Imax corporation, had felt herself behind the other English students and had to study extra hard. Liu Han Bing (“Ann”) remembered worrying about this strange, bearded foreign teacher who didn’t seem to know how to dress for the Wuhan winter.
English Department luncheon June 3
 Amidst discussions of what constitutes “success” in today’s China, spearheaded by the ever-skeptical Ying Laixi (“Larry”), who had remarked to me in 1981 that "China is a big country, but actually it's very small," we compared notes on our various and varied lives over three decades: the business career of Liu Hanbing (“Bing”) in Columbus, Ohio, and her enjoyment of her garden; Ying Lai Xi’s entrepreneurial undertakings, including six years working on a telecommunications project in Saudi Arabia; the academic careers of Shi Kuan (“Ken”), now at Foshan University’s Foreign Affairs office and an active member of the China Democratic party; Li Qingsheng, English professor and the only class member still at Wuda; and Luo Cheng, professor of linguistics at Brock University in Canada.

Presentation of commemorative plaque
We regretted the absences of Yang Yasha, in the U.S. for her daughter’s graduation from Yale and subsequent move to New York, where she will work at Columbia University; of Cao Lupin (“Lucy”), whose teaching obligations kept her in California and of Zhou Xinping, Song Xiaoping, Zhu Chenghai and Chen Jianling.
 
Departmental symposium
 This seemed to me a singularly successful and enterprising group. Indeed, only their long ago foreign teacher who didn’t know how to dress for winter had not made much of himself in the interim: he’d been a professor at a small Midwest college when he came to China in 1979, and was still working at the same college when he retired in 2009. He will try harder in future.

Professor Zhang Yujiu and students
With former professors (L to R): Zhang Yujiu, Yuan Jingxiang, Ruan Shen
With members of English Department
 After our campus tour, the class gathered with English Department members for a luncheon at the Fengyi Hotel on Bayi Lu, just off campus. Afterward, an informal symposium was held to talk about the past, present and future of graduate education in China. It brought together some of the senior teachers who’d taught the students with current teachers and department leaders. A large, handsome plaque engraved with cherry blossoms and commemorative inscription from the English Department's first graduate class was presented to the Department.

After the symposium, senior faculty and department members gathered on the steps of the Foreign Language building for pictures. Then several of them joined us for a banquet which included, by my count, eighteen excellent dishes including:
Graduate class dinner with colleagues, former professors
small fried crayfish and shrimp; black mushrooms; fish soup with tofu; bitter melon and cauliflower; crunchy little fried birds that I couldn’t identify, but that were definitely small birds.

Professor Yuan and Ying Laixi
Phoenix Hotsprings Hotel arcade
Also, tree ears and thin sliced pork; mutton ribs, and “melt-in-mouth” steamed pork, about the consistency of tofu; lotus root cakes, guotie (fried dumplings), Wuchang Yu (Wuchang fish), rice cakes, noodle soup, and a xigua (watermelon) and pineapple plate. And, of course, plenty of mi fan (rice).

The next morning, Saturday the 4th, the six of us – sadly, Liu Hanbing could not join us -- left early in a van for Xianning, 75 miles south of Wuhan, a hot springs area undergoing major development as a resort built around the Phoenix Hot Spring Hotel.

The Hotel has a Las Vegas air of polished floors, marble statues, and rococo Italianate arcade lined with designer fashion stores like Gucci and my own favorite, Boloni – none yet open. Some apartment buildings for the development are almost finished; there are models for Italian-looking duplex town homes. Just a railway stop from Wuhan yet amidst dense, wooded mountains, Xianning Country Garden is likely to be a smash hit with the new, wealthy elite.

Model of planned duplex
Our plans to go to the Yinshui cave in the afternoon were scrubbed due to heavy rain, but that didn’t stop us heading for the nearest hot springs resort, where we lounged the afternoon away in hot springs baths with various temperatures and features, such as herbs or tiny, nibbling fish that formed a gray corona around one’s toes.
Li Qingsheng & Huang Ke
Yinshui Cave
That evening, after dumplings at a Xianning dumpling restaurant, the group visited a KTV for karaoke. I’d seen KTV places all over China, but hadn’t been in one. They offer small private rooms, darkly lit, equipped with comfortable couches, tables, and a sophisticated karaoke setup with screen showing MTV-type performances for lip-syncing to old and new Chinese hits. Our group was still singing happily away long after younger customers had stumbled home. There were good voices in our group, but Luo Cheng was indisputably the karaoke king, with a baritone resembling that of another Canadian, the late Robert Goulet. Everyone, except me of course, had a large repertoire.
Train through Yinshui cave
 Sunday morning, the 5th, we traveled on what the tourist poster calls a “special nuclear power road” – no explanation of what that means -- to Yinshui cave, “mysterious underground pearl palace,” and “ten miles water gallery,” according to the promotional sign, since water rushes through the whole cave, requiring alternation between walking paths, lock-controlled boat rides, and a small train to navigate the cave as it steadily descends: “Traveling by train in the complicated cave,” says a tourist poster, “would give you the feeling of gods flying in water, with endless beautiful illusions.” The cave is lit to highlight its sculptured forms, many with fanciful names like “Frog Prince and Witch,” or “Dragon Heads Raising.”

On our way back to Wuhan we stopped at a rustic restaurant on a lake, complete with ancient bridge and water wheel. We were back in Wuhan by late afternoon, and said our goodbyes, at the end of a memorable weekend.
Rustic restaurant

My thanks to all who helped me return to Wuhan for a great year of relearning China, and for planning and implementing the thirty-year reunion: 谢谢. Perhaps there will be another: a fortieth, even a fiftieth? Who knows? We had been in a cave of endless, beautiful illusions. How could we not imagine pursuing success and having new stories to tell twenty years from now?
Tiny fish for lunch


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